il Regno del Tiramisu
March 2, 2009 Europe, Italy, Rome Comments Off
Traveling to Rome anytime soon? With the way the economy is right now, there are some amazing deals out there. I recently got a roundtrip airfare from Miami to Rome for under $300. It costs more to fly to New York! So I decided to hop on a flight to Rome for the weekend. I discovered a place called il Regno del Tiramisu. If you like Tiramisu, this place is heaven. If you don’t like Tiramisu, trust me… after this… you will.
Il Regno del Tiramisu is basically a giant bakery. They sell all kinds of desserts, but they are famous for their Tiramisu and many people claim that it is the world’s best Tiramisu. I think they might be right. The restaurant is located at via Calpurnio Fiamma, 67. It’s always packed with people, but they have quite an efficient system worked out. When you walk in, move to the right and pass by all of the huge refrigerators filled with Tiramisu (seriously… it’s amazing). Walk up to the counter and place your order. There are different flavors, but in my opinion the original is the best. You have to specify if you’re going to eat there or take it with you. If you buy 8 of them like I did, take the tiramisu over to the entrance where they will pack it up and give it back to you. Then you have to go pay and you’re all set.
I’m warning you right now… you cannot stop eating this stuff. When you finish the first one, you will probably eat 1 or 2 more. Do NOT walk into this place if you’re starving… But while in Rome, definitely make the effort to visit il Regno del Tiramisu. It is worth the trip and you will never forget the Tiramisu! The only downside is that you will never order Tiramisu anywhere else and enjoy it as much. But it’s little hidden secrets like this that make Rome the amazing city that it is.
For more information, check out: http://www.barpompi.it/
Tel Aviv has recently become one of the hottest cities in the Middle East (hottest as in most popular). Good luck trying to find a good hotel though. Most of them our outrageously priced, and have terrible service. If you look beyond the big names though, you can find some hidden treasures. The Cinema Hotel, located at 1 Zamenhoff Street is one of them. The hotel is located in a quainte and quiet plaza and is just a few blocks from the tourist swarmed Gordon Beach. Trust me… stay away from the hotels right on Gordon Beach.
The Cinema Hotel used to be an actual cinema. Actually it was the first cinema in the city of Tel Aviv. It has been completely renovated into a nice, friendly boutique hotel. There is all kinds of movie memorabilia all over the hotel, and parts of the old cinema can still be seen in many areas. Here is a shot of the elevators in the lobby where you can see the machinery that used to control the cinema.
The bad news is that the rooms really aren’t all that great. Ours was a little musty and small, but it was comfortable and adequate. There was free wireless internet which is amazing… I paid $180 per night to stay at the Cinema Hotel. The Sheraton on Gordon Beach charged me $400 and then hit me up for $20 to use the internet. I hate that. Not to mention the electronic key card wasn’t working at the Sheraton the entire time I was there. That’s another story…
The breakfast buffet a the Cinema Hotel was awesome (also included!). Hot scrambled eggs, cakes, Middle Eastern selections… I was impressed. It’s also the little things like the free popcorn in the lobby and the free bicycle rentals which are really convenient for going to the beach. If you do decide to take my advice and stay here, one evening just walk around the corner to the little crepe place and sit at one of the sidewalk tables. Order a mushroom and cheese crepe. I’m not a big mushroom fan but this was really tasty.
If you are in Palma de Mallorca for more than 3 or 4 days, I highly recommend making a daytrip to Valldemossa. There is a highway off the MA-20 that heads due North, and takes you right to Valldemossa. Just follow the signs. As you leave Palma you’ll head straight toward the mountains, and then eventually the road curves in and cuts through the hills, leading you straight to a beautiful town, nestled into the green mountains. This is the view of the town as you drive in. There is plenty of parking on all of the little side streets. Valldemossa is best seen on foot.
out back and enjoy the calm atmosphere. When you’ve had enough of Valdemossa, get back in your car and head on to Deia. I’ll write about that in my next post.
Soller is a town on the Northwest part of the island of Mallorca. From Palma de Mallorca, you have to cross the mountains of the island to get there. Driving from Palma only takes about 30 minutes if you pay the toll and use the tunnel which cuts through the mountains. 
If you are more adventurous there is a longer road which goes through the mountains which takes twice as long. The other alternative is to take the train that goes from Plaza de Espa
The train itself is beautiful… with the outside made of wood. The interior is very classic looking and truly captures the feeling of riding in a 100 year old train through the mountains of Mallorca. As the train leaves the station in Palma, you actually go right through the city of Palma before reaching the outskirts. For some reason, trains just seem to fascinate people. Everyone that sees the train passing by stops what they’re doing and watches, usually waiving to those inside.
The views from the train are simply breathtaking. Try to choose a nice day to take the train. Given that Mallorca receives 300 days of sun per year, that shoudn’t be too difficult. 
As the train heads out of the city, it runs along the industrial zone of Poligono Son Castello, which is obviously not that attractive. But once you pass the Poligono, and head towards the mountains, you will see nothing but beautiful patches of olive trees and the Mallorquin countryside. In June, just as the summer hits Mallorca, the trees are full of beautiful flowers, which makes for some great photo opportunities.
The train takes about one hour to reach Soller from the time you leave the station in Palma. The train cuts through a long tunnel in the mountain for about 5 minutes and the most spectacular views are on the other side of the mountain.
Once the train stops in the city of Soller, there is a streetcar, or trolley that takes you from the main city to the Port of Soller. Again, it is definitely worth it to take the trolley. The tracks take you right through the town and through people’s backyards until finally reaching the port. 
The tracks then run right along the water and outline the crescent shaped bay that makes the port so picturesque. 
The picture on the right was taken from the trolley as we passed through some of the backyards of the houses between the town of Soller and the port.
Take the trolley all the way to the end, and then you have a few options. There is a boat that takes a fairly large number of tourists along the coastline of Mallorca and stops in one of the calas. But when I saw the amount of people getting onto this boat I decided against it. For that kind of experience you are better off finding someone in Palma who will take you out on a sailboat and you can stop at any beach you choose and jump off into the water.
The best way to spend the day is just to walk through the Port of Soller. The picture on the right is of a building that is right along the main road in the port. There are two statues of mermaids perched upon the balcony, as if they were people watching, and gazing into the water of the bay that lies just behind the main road. I also really enjoyed walking around and looking at the houses in Soller. The combinations of colors were very pretty, and gave me a few ideas for my own home back in Miami.
The crane you see in the background of this picture is the construction site of Jumeirah’s first European spa resort. Jumeirah is best known for it’s famous Burj Al Arab hotel in Dubai which has become an icon of the city with its famous sail shaped building. When completed this hotel will certainly have some spectacular views. The entrance of a major player like Jumeirah into Soller is likely to change the town completely.
Ok, so this place looks like the low end of fast food chains around the world… The size of the restaurant is not much bigger than your kitchen at home, and they don’t have much more than a hot dog grill and a deep fryer to work with, but if you can get past all that, you will taste some of the best German sausages that you have ever tasted in your life. This little fast food sausage shop is located right on Paseo Maritimo, just next to the Melia Palas Atenea hotel. They have some tables and chairs outside on the sidewalk so you can sit and eat while people-watching on Paseo Maritimo, or if you prefer you can sit inside, although seating is very limited. Grillmeister is one of the few places that are open very late so people who go out partying love to come here for a late night snack… and let me tell you… salty German sausages taste fantastic after a night of drinking.
I always order the same thing… there is one long thin sausage (pictured on the right). This is by far the best one. I can’t tell you what it’s called because I always just point and say “that one”. But they serve it to you in a fresh baguette, and of course the traditional way of eating it is with some mustard. I recommend choosing one that has been on the grill a little longer, they are crispier that way. I also recommend the French Fries, with some mayonnaise of course. It’s not the healthiest meal you’ll ever eat, but you won’t regret it. If you really want to top it off with a yummy desert, either walk left to Haagen Dazs (if you are facing Grillmeister) just a few steps away… or to the right there is a great place for crepes. You can’t go wrong with Nutella, strawberries and whipped cream!
Santa Catalina is a charming area within the city of Palma de Mallorca. It is a very residential area but the streets are lined with quaint restaurants, cafes, shops and bars. Located at number 11 on Calle Soler, is a small restaurant called Pastagonia. Owned by Argentinians, the menu is a mix of fresh pastas and other italian style dishes. But everyone goes to Pastagonia for their fondue.
My favorite is the cheese fondue. At Pastagonia the cheese fondue does not have that overpowering taste of alcohol like many other cheese fondues that I have tried. There are two options for the cheese fondue, either the bread and sausage plate, or the vegetable plate. Pastagonia is small and there are only a few tables. Reservations are recommeded. Call +34 971 903 511 to reserve a table. Parking in Santa Catalina can be a challenge so either take a taxi, or park near Plaza Progres and walk past the gas station into Santa Catalina. 
Walk down Calle Annibal for 2 blocks until you hit Calle Soler and make a left. Another 2 blocks down you will see a lit up sign for Pastagonia on the left side of the street.
Almost at the corner of San Joan and Carrer dels Apuntadors you will find Forn de Sant Joan. As you can see from the crowd waiting to get into the place, Forn de Sant Joan is quite popular among both locals and tourists. You can call for advance reservations at +34 971 728 422, which is highly recommended. If you show up between 9 and 11 without a reservation you can expect to wait at least 15 to 20 minutes for a table. If you don’t have a reservation and there is a wait, you can always put your name down and spend a good 20 to 30 minutes at Wineing. Just walk up to Carrer dels Apuntadors and make a left. Just around the corner, you can experience a unique method of wine tasting and sample a variety of wines from Mallorca and other regions of Spain. See my other post about Wineing.
Forn de Sant Joan is a charming and tastefully designed restaurant and tapas bar. It has four levels. Downstairs is a larger room with wooden floors, which can get rather loud and smokey, but is definitely better if you are with a larger group. The entrance level has two high top tables where four can sit comfortably and order drinks and tapas. This level also has a bar and an open kitchen. The third and fourth levels are much more quiet and intimate. No matter where you sit though, you can expect some great tasting tapas and very attentive service. 
selecting a variety of dishes from the tapas menu will allow you to try more of the different types of dishes offered at Forn de Sant Joan. You can’t go wrong with a plate of Jamon Serrano, and a side order of Pam Boli (toasted bread scraped with tomato). Also try the Ham Croquettes, the Garlic Shrimp (Gambas al Ajillo), and the fried potatoes with spicy mayo sauce (Patatas Bravas). For a real treat, mix the fried potatoes from the Patatas Bravas with the garlic oil from the Gambas al Ajillo. Whatever you decide to order, make sure you save just a little room for the incredible deserts. You absolutley have to try the famous strawberry desert at Forn de San Joan. They take full strawberries, hollow out the centers and fill them with Creme Brulee. They even torch the top so that the Creme Brulee has a crispy candied top. It is the perfect way to top off your meal at Forn de Sant Joan.
Buried deep into La Lonja, the old part of the city of Palma de Mallorca, is a hidden treasure for wine lovers. Welcome to Wineing, where you can escape the hustle and bustle of the crowded areas of La Lonja, and taste a wide variety from Mallorca, from all over Spain, and others from places like Chile and Argentina. The restaurant is located on Carrer des Apuntadores, but it is off the beaten path. If walking down Carrer des Apuntadores from the Cathedral, walk past Puro Hotel, and just as the street curves slightly to the right, you will see Wineing. Come prepared to eat some great tapas and try fantastic local and international wines.
Wineing presents a unique way for wine lovers (and beginners) to try new wines. There is a white marble counter, with a temperature controlled glass case filled with different kinds of wines. The case all the way to the right offers a limited selection of international wines, including Napa Valley, Chile and Argentina. Most of the wines available at Wineing are local wines produced right here in Mallorca. Simply tell one of the waiters of waitresses that you would like to try the wines and they will present you with a plastic card with a smart chip.
Make sure that the balance on the card is 0 before you start. You can check this by inserting the card into the reader at the top of the wine case. Once you insert the card into the machine, the displays on top of each wine will show 3 different prices. The first price is for just a taste of the wine. The second is for half a glass an the third is for a full glass. Take a clean glass off the table and hold it beneath the spout. Choose the quantity of the wine you would like to try and press the button until the machine begins to pour the wine. Also, be sure to check out the back room, where there are even more wines to try. My recommendation is to try a few of the wines, choose one that you like, and then get a full glass to enjoy by the bar with some tapas. This shoud make for a very satisfying “wineing” experience.
As of now reservations are not needed at Wineing. Because the restaurant is about half a block from the more popular areas, and is not easily visible because of the slight curve in the street, Wineing is not usually crowded.
Looking at the city of Palma de Mallorca from a distance, there are two noticeable structures nestled into the green hills behind the city. One is the Bellver Castle, and the other is a tall statue of Na Burguesa, who was a religious saint among the locals. What many people don’t know, is that at the base of the tower that holds this statue, there is a really cool restaurant called “Na”. To get there, go to the Genova exit on the MA-20 (known as Via Cintura) and follow signs for Genova. Once you reach the town of Genova you will see signs for Na Burguesa. Proceed (with caution) up the hill. Although the road is well paved, there are no guardrails, and it’s a long way down.
Try to get there when there is still some sunlight left. The views of Palma de Mallorca from Na Burguesa is incredible. Also the restaurant is quite popular with locals, and parking is sometimes limited. Getting there a little early can ensure you a parking spot next to the restaurant instead of having to parallel park on the steep hill with no guardrails. Although you may be tempted to stop along the road on the way up to the restaurant to take some pictures, I recommend you don’t, since the road is a little narrow. The views from up top are spectacular.
The menu selection at Na Burguesa is a compilation of mostly gourmet Spanish style food. Do not miss the fried Camembert with cranberry sauce. It is truly incredible. Although the Jamon Serrano plate is a little pricey, there is nothing like the taste of Spanish olives and Jamon Serrano while enjoying the spectacular views of the city just beyond your table. For the main course I recommend one of the steak dishes, particularly the Chuleton. Remember that in Spain, Medium means Medium Rare. If you want your steak to be cooked Medium, ask for “Al Punto.”
The scene at Na Burguesa changes dramatically once the sun goes down. So take your time, enjoy your meal and definitely get desert. The photo to the right is of the hot chocolate brownie.
Mallorca (also commonly spelled Majorca) is considered the 6th most popular tourist destination in Europe. In August, the airport of Palma de Mallorca (PMI), is the busiest in all of Europe. During most of the year, the population of the island is approximately 800,000 with half the popuation actually living in the city of Palma de Mallorca, and the other half living in other areas of the island. Now keep in mind that more than 20 million tourists visit Mallorca each year. It’s actually quite a shock to land on an island of 800,000 people and see such an expansive airport.
It’s no wonder the island is so popular. On average Mallorca receives 300 days of sun out of each year, and is very geographically diverse. Towards the north of the island, near the picturesque towns of Soller, Deia and Valldemossa, Mallorca is quite mountainous, while in the south of the island, the land is much more flat and dry. Palma de Mallorca is located on the western part of the island, and to drive from Palma to Manacor, a small city famous for its furniture and located on the eastern part of the island, takes a little less than 1 hour.
Mallorca is probably most popular among tourists for its beaches. The beaches in the south are long white expansive beaches with powdery sand and crystal clear aqua blue waters such as the ones you may find in the Caribbean. In the west and northern parts of the island, you can find smaller beaches surrounded by rocky cliffs with clear emerald green colored water. The water is quite cool (at least for us Americans), but in the hot sun of Mallorca’s summer season, a dive into the ocean is a welcome refreshment.
The island has also become a haven for the world’s rich and famous, and is often grouped with other exclusive destinations such as St. Tropez, Monte Carlo and Portofino. Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones, and Claudia Schiffer, all have houses here along with many other famous models and celebrities. Just as the island is geographically diverse, however, it is also diverse in terms of the types of tourist it attracts. If you visit the area of Puerto Portals, for example, you can stroll along the marina, crowded with multi-million dollar (or Euro) yachts. Drive just 10 minutes west to Magaluf, however, and during the summer months you will be surrounded by a very drunk group of British tourists mostly between the ages of 18 and 25.
The island has something for everyone. Even those looking for a peaceful family vacation on the beach with a fairly limited budget can find something in Mallorca. Don’t come looking to make friends with too many locals though. The Mallorquin culture is quite peculiar. The people here though know this about themselves and are not afraid to laugh about it. For some insight into the Mallorquin culture pick up a copy of “Mis queridos Mallorquines”. The book was written by a local gentlemen but was written from a tourist’s perspective of how the people of Mallorca may be percieved by others.